Just right of Goodro's Wall is a glass surface that someone decided was climbable. This route actually start in the gully to the right, and does a hand traverse along the obvious crack halfway up. Upon reaching the piton hidden in the crack, start to climb up the right-angling weaknesses/ crack, past a "lost" micro-nut, and continue to a thin finger ledge. From here launch into a couple of rightward lunges to good 2-3 finger ledges and pump out the climb. Not too technical, just tough on the fingers and almost no feet.
Protection
2 draws for the anchor (Goodro's Wall). Micro-nuts for the lead.
How hard do you guys think this is? It seems kind of soft at .12b, especially compared to Big in Japan. I also added a short loop of webbing to the first fixed pin, since a biner clipped directly into the pin was loading over the edge of the hand traverse a bit. No micro nuts needed as far as I can tell, just a couple draws and small TCUs. Wiggling in micro gear any higher than the obvious blue TCU would be way too hard I think. Still getting my nerve up for the redpoint...
Yeah maybe I'm being premature. A friend of mine just mentioned that he thought it was really soft, more like .11d, so that got me wondering. Hopefully I'll redpoint the thing soon, so I'll have a good idea then.
Storm Mountain Island
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