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North and West Faces

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North and West Faces

Submitted By: James Garrett on Sep 27, 2007
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard
Views: 991 page views

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Description 

This area provides access to a plethora of climbs. Many of these climbs date back to the 40's when Harold Goodro and the Alpenbock members climbed here extensively. You may still find old remnants of slings around trees and rusted, bent-over pitons. It is the hope of some climbers that some of these unused museum pieces stay right where they are, as a natural museum showcase where some of the Wasatch's earliest pioneers went to seek adventure.

In the late 80s, rap-and-drill definitely made one of its initial entries into the Wasatch in this very area. New route activity boomed. On many of these routes people were expected to still utilize the natural gear placements. Placing gear on these mixed BCC routes can be trying and requires a learned skill.

A renewed interest in this area seems to be going on just lately. Always expect to see other climbers here. Try to share the routes and it should go without saying please TR off your own locking carabiners and rappel instead of lower off the chains to increase their shelf life! This is also a safety consideration as well!

The rock is quartzite, typical for Big Cottonwood Canyon, which may present itself as somewhat dirty, but cleans up well with traffic. And that is something that the popular routes see in this area in particular....lots of traffic. Very popular with the "after work" crowd and those seeking a pump in the evening sun.


Getting There 

Park as for any of the climbing in the Stairs Gulch area. Hike up the very nice trail west of the streambed and walk around the first buttress one encounters on the right. This is the Challenge Buttress. 10 minute approach.



Featured Route For North and West Faces
Bout half way up hollow man.

Hollow Man 5.9  UT : Wasatch Range : North and West Faces
On the west face of Challenge Buttress, just around the northwest corner, is this 7 bolt route. This route is great, a consistent 5.9. Find your resting spots and pump it out.This is a route you climb, and then pump out 3 or 4 more times for a workout. With a pine tree shading the sun in the summer it is a great late afternoon climb to cool down.Just enjoy this beauty....[more]