Turtwig 

FA:  J. Steiger & C. Saviers-Steiger, July 27, 2007 New Route:  Yes Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.7 [details] Length:  1 pitch, 50 feet Views: 96 page views Submitted By: John Steiger on Sep 22, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

Start just left of Reach the Beach. Climb up and diagonal slightly left, intersecting a large crack system near its top. Step left and climb face past a bolt to the top, ending a few feet right of the anchors for the (currently) chopped "unknown" route right of Waterfront. Perhaps the longest route on the crag, this is a must do for the Beachball aficionado (it would at least keep the moss from growing back). The bolt was added after the FA to make it suitable for 5.7 leaders.

Location 

Find Reach the Beach in Ruckmans' guide.

Protection 

Cams from 3/4 to 2 inches (look for horizontal placements), medium nuts, draws. Probably safest to walk off; as of this writing, the anchors for the "unknown" route had only one quicklink.