BETA PHOTO: Photo topo for the new route. Long route with lot...
Description
Yes...this is a newly equipped and established line that 'finishes' someone's earlier efforts--therefore the FA may belong to them (sans bolts)--however, whoever they were probably followed weaknesses to the right, evidenced by two old and rusty pins. I didn't speak with anyone who really knows? The consensus was "???, yeah, I know that bolt your talking about...doesn't go anywhere...doesn't look worth it...haven't ever seen anyone over there...etc." (I've since talked to a few folks who have ventured around here and they've all said it wasn't really worthwhile, rotten and thin...kind of easy to get lost...)
This 'new' line is obvious and is very well-protected, travelling up through the blocky roof/overlap from the old existing bolt (bolt #2), to the smooth section above. Continue travelling up, past some loose looking but surprisingly solid ledges, and up, and up...
Thanx JG!
Location
15' left (south) of Coral Bells 10' right (north) of Whoopsy
Protection
13 bolts plus chain anchors (Watch the ends of your rope!!!)
By Ryan Brough From: Arvada, Colorado Aug 25, 2007 rating: 5.9
This is a fun route that offers something lengthier than the typical Challenge Buttress fare. Although the 5.9 section is short, you are rewarded with fun and easy climbing above that earns you great views.
Fun route. Esp. the 1st 40 feet or so. We were fine with a 60m rope-about 5 feet left. Thanks for the work.
By glen kaplan From: Salt Lake City, UT Sep 12, 2007
As of 9/10/07: Please, please, please wear a helmet and climb alert when doing this route. There are still plenty of lurkers (especially a little to the left when getting lowered and on the dirt ledges). Also, the roof/overlap corner has got some friable. All good, just be smart!
As to the "glen u r a freak" plaque...if you only knew :)
But Glen U R A FREAK!! Thanks for all the work you and your crew has done to area. Just climbed this one tonight and really enjoyed it. Couple of fun easy roofs to pull, Lots of climbing and great protection. Nice work and fun climb. Did a top belay, good place for a safety meeting. then rapped with 60 m.
By Spinalflow From: Salt Lake City , Utah Sep 14, 2007 rating: 5.9-
This route should be renamed GLEN your a MEGA-FREAK!
First six bolts are nice ........ Top rope possibilities offer some more difficult options.
It has come to my attention recently that this climb is very dangerous for people using a short rope...that people could easily rap off the end of the rope. If rapping from the anchors, I believe the rope reaches, especially if one trends toward the little ledge on Whoopsie. It probably is a 31m pitch. It seems everyone's ropes are different lengths than the actual manufacturers specs! Please be aware that this is a "longer" sport climb. Plan on using a 70m rope or two ropes or extend the chain anchor with long slings if lowering and doing TRs. If you really are rapping and using a 60m rope, I really doubt there is a need to rap off one bolt as was brought up as a concern to me recently. We climbed it with a 60m and with rope stretch reached the ground with no problem?
Not a bad route. It's pretty dirty in some spots, and the rock formation really seems to send falling rocks outward quite a ways. Take care in where you stand for the belay.
Through bolt 7 - 2 stars, from bolt 7 to the top - -1 star. I felt the top blocky section really detracted from the lower part of the climb. However, the length of the route is a bonus considering the surrounding routes. Glad I did it once, and a good route for 5.8 leaders to jump on.
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