If you park at the "Remnants of an Ancient Sea" pullout, hike up and angle left toward the wall. You are heading for the main arete between the East Face and the North Face. When you reach the arete and where the wall meets the scree. You want to start the climb on the east side (left side) of the arete by a little tree/bush.
Pitch one:Climb up and right to reach the arete, then follow the right side (north side) of the arete up until you come to a BIG ledge. When I climbed this I had a 60 meter rope, so I am not positive that you can reach this ledge with a 50 meter rope. If you aren't going to make it, you can easily stop at a couple of points to break this pitch into 2. Either way, make sure you use long runners to prevent serious rope drag.
Pitch two:(From the Big ledge.)Start to the right of the belay and climb up through cracks staying on the north side of the arete until you reach a feature some call "the cave." It is an obvious ledge to belay from, now you are on the arete again, with better exposure. This pitch is easily reached with a 50 meter rope, it isn't too long, however I don't remember its exact length.
Pitch three:Technically you have the option of climbing up onto the east side (left)of the arete, but that isn't why you are climbing this route. So move to the right from the belay back out onto the north face and climb upward. The climbing finally gets the exposure you were looking for so look around and enjoy. Follow cracks up to the top. Again, a 50 meter rope easily reaches the top.
Descent:Hike up and then right (west) where you will find a great trail that leads down to the shale layer which is above the "Remnants..." parking area. Then down to the pullout.
This route would be three stars if the rock was better on the lower pitch. It is a great route for the moderate traditional leader.
Definitely a great route, diverse and with good, committing moves for the grade. I'd caution the inexperienced trad leader to take advantage of each opportunity for pro on the last pitch, particularly as you approach the exit roof. Small-to-micro stoppers are helpful.
By Nathan Fisher Administrator Jul 6, 2004 rating: 5.7
This climb was a great experience for myself and my partner. Brief history: My brother, his two sons, and I had decided to climb this back in the 90's, but we never did it as the "fear factor" engulfed us on the 1st pitch. We bailed. My partner, Chris, informed me that he wanted to do it, and so I comitted. The climb is neither as scary as people led me to believe, nor as hard to protect. Granted, I probably placed as many pieces on the last pitch as I did on all the other pitches combined, but only because the last pitch was the only sustained pitch. I broke it into 4 pitches and all of the 1st 3 pitches had good sections and weak sections. The 1st pitch initial crack (until you cross the arete) was beautiful. The early moves on the 2nd pitch were exciting. The 3rd pitch coming into the cave was magnificent, but the 4th pitch (exposed right variation) was consistent and fun and well... exposed.
The only fixed gear I saw on the route was at the cave belay (1 piton), and on pitch 2 (another piton). The belay stations at pitch 2 and 3 had slings preset around immobile rocks. There were also 2 "lost" cams on this route. Cam #1 was really lost (broken trigger) and really deep in the crack. Kudos to you if you can get it out, bad karma if you do. Cam 2 would require fingers the size of needles. I am not sure what went through the mind of the climber that placed that piece as it looked like a guaranteed loss. The protection throughout the climb was good, and it required no special gear. Standard rack would work. However a red metolius protected the parallel crack off of the pedestal very nicely.
This climb was the "classic" that I stated for the obvious reasons. 1) the length 2) good rock 3) varied climbing 4) The massive amount of exposure on pitch 4. The only detraction from this climb was the fact that there were easy section interspersed in the climb. Not enough to kill the 3 stars. This climb may become an annual ritual with me.
I loved this route. Three pitches of beautiful rock with great belay ledges. The first pitch is straight-forward and not too difficult. The start of the second pitch is the crux but the difficult section lasts only about 10 feet. The last pitch is steep with sustained 5.7 moves and is the most exciting. Protection is good on all three pitches. A large cam (#4 friend) is useful in two locations.
Great exposure. P-1 & p-2 can be done as one pitch stretching a 70meter rope. Belay just over the top under the big boulder, using a hand size cam and a smaller one
Pitches 1 and 2 can be run together with a 60 meter rope, although rope drag may become an issue. P1 starts with some straightforward, easy face climbing. Plenty of no hands rests and lots of options for pro (standard rack). After crossing the arete, P1 has some interesting dihedral moves, but nothing too difficult.
P2 has an interesting start. Your best early handholds are also the best chance to place pro, and you will want to get in a piece or two straight away to protect this early crux. The climbing eases up considerably after 15 feet or so.
P3 is a bit broken and discontinuous, but a nice exit into the cave belay station.
P4 is fantastic and protects well with smaller cams and nuts. Go right or don't bother doing this climb. It begins with a very comitting move out onto a face. Do you trust that foot hold? After you get on the face, the pitch is long and continuous.Make sure you bring plenty of pro, or you may find yourself faced with creative gear placement toward the end of P4.
The exit, a steep path that descends to the west, is also pretty sporty, particularly the last 100 vertical feet. You'll find yourself skidding on lots of loose shale.
meh, the last pitch was good, 1 star for the other two pitches. Kind of the standard BCC broken/ledgy climbing, not great pro. The last pitch is continuous and solid though. I guess with a few exceptions, maybe I'm just not in love with BCC trad climbing, since I've heard a lot of people say good things about this route.
By Bee Charmer From: Salt Lake City, Utah Aug 21, 2007
$50 reward for lost cell phone. Lost 8/21 It fell down a crack in the back of the second pitch(the cave). Silver LG phone. It is about 2-2 1/2 feet down and you'll need to take a stick or a reacher or grabber to reach it. Maybe you could push it into an empty soda bottle that is attached to string or something and pull it up. Just suggestions..... Thanks to all that give it a try. If it helps you feel even more sorry for me, I got 10 bee stings just below that pitch. If by some miracle you retrieve it, call 801.783.8996 ask for LaNova
By Bee Charmer From: Salt Lake City, Utah Aug 21, 2007
Besides the bees and the lost phone, it was an amazing climb with excellent exposure! And the view......take a camera!
November 2nd 2007-Lost Wallet/money clip. while on Outer corner on sunday, we think it fell out of the pack at the top of the climb. there should be a drivers licence for Steven Aderholt with it. if you you did the climb sunday afternoon or find this wallet please email stevenaderholt@yahoo.com
Thanks
Matt
By icsteveoh From: salt lake city, UT Jun 29, 2008 rating: 5.8
what a great route with with seriously committing moves. Walk off kinda sucks... really sucks at the end. mind the rattlers.
The erosion we're causing could warrant some trail work there to build steps like the slips or some rap bolts to get down.
JHCOB Wall
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