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Moral Bells Arete 

5.8

   

FA: James Garrett and Glen Kaplan, 13 August 2007
New Route: Yes
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.8 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 80 feet
Season: Great anytime
Views: 604 page views

Submitted By: James Garrett on Aug 14, 2007


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You and this route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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BETA PHOTO: Here's a topo for the new extension...


Description 

Glen and I always felt that Contor and Taylor (FA of Coral Bells Arete) had cut that arete short. After replacement bolting that 20 year old line, we extented the pitch up. Clip the two-bolt belay and climb past two more bolts to the two bolt anchor. This makes for "more" of the Coral Bells Arete. The rock is excellent and required very little cleaning.
CBA was not altered or changed in any way. The old spinners were pulled out and replaced by Mike White and ASCA. Thanks again for teaching us the true craft of bolt removal.


Location 

Climb Coral Bells Arete and keep on going for Moral Bells Arete. Rappel the route with one rope.


Protection 

6 QDs from the ground and a nut or .4 Camalot for the gear placement on CBA.



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By glen kaplan
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 14, 2007
rating: 5.8

yeah...the arete stops here!...now

extensions are good! all kinds of extensions...

By Ryan Brough
From: Arvada, Colorado
Aug 25, 2007
rating: 5.8

This extension makes the arete a more enjoyable climb. Together, I give them three stars! ***

By John Bradford
Sep 26, 2007

Sorry; did this yesterday and I am just not sure that it adds much to the climb. OK, but easy climbing with all the good stuff still below the original anchors. Just my opinion, I could be wrong.....

By Craig Martin
Sep 27, 2007
rating: 5.8

What it adds to the climb is more climbing. That is all.

By James Garrett
Sep 29, 2007

Couldn't agree with you more John. We just seem to like longer pitches, I guess. The original anchors are still in place and were not altered. I recently spoke with Gary Taylor after he had climbed "Moral". He liked the extension, but you are correct, the best moves probably remain down low.

By Stymingersfink
Dec 24, 2007

Clip the first anchors, then get lowered.

The FA's had the right idea in mind... a great little route, with not a lot of extraneous bullsh!t.

Hell, the best part of the route is getting from the ground, up the arete to the second bolt!