Most people feel that the crux is near the end of the route as one nears the chains after the last bolt. Good steep climbing reminiscent of climbing on the pile in BCC. Well protected, although still a bit dirty. This is the right most (southern most) route on the upper Ambush Wall.
Location
Follow the directions to the lower ambush wall. As you are facing the routes on the lower wall simply take the trail to the left of the lower ambush wall. You will see a short but stout 5.11d on your right as you pass on by the lower ambush wall. The trail is steep but short. Keep heading up the loose scree trail until the climbing becomes visible to hikers right hand side. You will see the steep routes on an orangish-tannish colored wall. Approach time is around five minutes from the BCC road.
Protection
Standard rack of quickdraws will suffice. No more than 10 draws needed. I believe that the route is six or seven bolts. Chains are placed a bit more to the right than I expected.
This is a great route for some one to start lead on some 5.10 overhung routes. Overhung but bomber hands and feet. Pulling up on the last bolt you can't see the chains over the last bulge, but they are right there only about 4 feet up and to the right of the last bolt.
I thought this was a fun and well bolted route but clipping the chains is very akward! They need to be either raised another foot so your able to pull the roof, or lowered another foot to prevent rope rub.
By Judson Widner From: Park City, Ut. Jul 19, 2009 rating: 5.10-
Agreed Ty.. definitely rap off after cleaning the anchor, and save your rope. The chains need to be a few links longer to hang over the edge. A great route, lots of good side pull moves.
Good climb accompanied by a healthy pump. Hardest move was definitely getting in a good position to clip the anchors, luckily I am 6'4''. Located on upper wall up steep and short trail.
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