This is a pretty homogeneous sport climb added to the fray about 200 feet up the hillside from Winky and Waxman Go Bolting. Start up some tricky finesse moves to the first roof and fire this to bigger more positive holds on the overhanging face to a bomber block (point of rage?). Some small bands along the way provide pleasant rests from this pumpfest. It stays in your face until the welcome reprieve at the chains.
One of new climber Dustin's first climbs outside the gym...might he become a lifer?
Although extensive route cleaning and preparation was done, this should improve with age. Until then, consider wearing a helmet and lunge/cut loose with caution.
Location
cTr is located on the west face of Challenge Buttress about 20 feet to the left (north) of Falling Apart At The Seams and up the scree field above Winky...this climb ends at the top of the cliff.
Protection
QDs for 13 bolts to the two-bolt belay chains. A belay bolt to the right on a little ledge has also been installed for added safety. Good protection.
Great climb with very positive holds all the way to the top. This is one of the longer sport climbs I have done in the canyon(13 bolts). I would give cTr 3 stars if you compare it to Better Than Bitter.
By glen kaplan From: Salt Lake City, UT Jul 13, 2007 rating: 5.10b
I definitely like 'BTB' better (say that 4X fast 4X4) but... this is certainly a welcome addition to the area and will be on my circuit from now on. Good idea to wear a helmet, belay off to the side, and treat most holds with caution. The route itself doesn't really have any super memorable moves (close at the second roof, and another at the top) but it sure is continuous, sorta long, steep, and huge!!!
Once a bit cleaner, I think this is the best candidate for "first .10 lead" because it is so positive and well-protected even though I agree with the .10b rating...
Yesterday, I pulled off two loose softball size rocks on this about 1/3 the way up. One left a nice positive sloper hold. Might be a few more lurkers on this. Helmets for climber and belayer are recommended as well as belaying out of the debris zone.
Hey Allen, Is the route cleaning up? Any other comments about it? What did you think? Is the grade the same? I definitely think it not a bad idea to wear helmets in that area for awhile longer! Thanks, James
I have not been on it since too scared :D. The grade is still within the 10b range with some more traffic any more lurkers will come off. I think it is the case of some people going one way and some going another so everyone finds a surprise now and then.
By Craig Martin From: Park City, UT Sep 13, 2007 rating: 5.10b
Loved it! This is cleaning up nicely, and pulling on any loose holds seems to be a matter of route finding now. Fun, pumpy climbing.
I think I am going to call this Chose To Remove. Haha. I was up there over the weekend and saw another luker come off. This time though it instead of making a hold, one was removed. I saw the potential for a couple more.
Been wanting to get on this for a year now and had not despite numerous outings to Challenge Buttress. Led the route on May 4 and rock quality was a big issue. I pulled a baseball sized rock off at about the 3rd bolt and threw a split-finger fastball with it away from my partner. This "hold" should in no way affect the climb. My partner, on the other hand, also led the route and pulled off what he described as one of the larger and more route-defining holds/rails around the penultimate bolt. I watched it fly through the air, bounce once and divide, and then head directly for me. I dodged it, almost falling down in the process. I really see little reason to repeat this route given the rock quality and route quality (somewhat discontinuous).
The rock quality seems to increase as you make your way up this line. As long as you take a good look at what you're aiming to grab and give it a test pull before yarding on it, nothing will come off. The only loose hold I grabbed won't come out, it just rotates around (if you want to know what loose is, check out the line to the right, Falling Apart at the Seams) Great moves on the upper clean "headwall", too bad it's not longer.
What's up with the glue-in bolt sitting in the dihedral at the right of the start? Practice? Ugly as hell!
Belay bolt...so much safer to belay from there completely protected from all the reported rock fall. Glad it is cleaning up. I like this route alot and don't feel it to be particularly loose?
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