First off, let me admit that this is a project of mine. I have made it past the pin before the crux, but I don't think I've actually made it to the crux yet. I fell once on a green camalot, then again on a red camalot higher up. I took two falls on a #3 camalot past the pin, then tried to protect the next sequence with a #00 C3. It tore out when I fell again, and I whipped upside-down and injured my heel. Did I mention that I got stung by a wasp? My first epic! Needless to say, this route is continuously difficult, extremely technical, airy, exposed, long, and worth an approach twice as arduous. Set up a belay on the shale layer and climb over a slabby face towards the bushes above the flake. Follow the crack up and to the left around an airy bulge, and another airy bulge, and another airy bulge. Clip a pin next to a hollow sounding flake and climb through another airy bulge. The Ruckman guide indicates that the crux is right after this section through a steep crack (I didn't make it that far). Once the crux is finished, you have two options, continue following the crack, or climb diagonally right to the top of the wall and set up a gear belay for your second.
Location
Start on top of the shale layer to the left (North) of the bolt line and the flake. Walk off to the North (up and over the top of the wall) or downclimb the slab to the anchors for the other routes.
Protection
Standard rack, doubles recommended. I saw one fixed pin. No anchors at the top.
I'm bustin up reading your description Ryan! I led this years ago and DECKED! Allow me to elaborate. I made the should-of-been fatal mistake to race the pump clock on this one, so I didn't place enough gear. I got up to where the Ruckman guide says the crux is and promptly peeled. My first cam a few feet below me immediately ripped. Dam!, I thought, now I can't make fun of my friend that zippered 3 pieces on Half-a-finger--I just pulled something. As I was accustomed to falling a lot at the time, I eyeballed the next piece and got ready for the swing. Just as I was about to let a sigh of relief, the cam pulled at the very end of the swing. After that, I'm not quite sure what happened. I do know my draw on the piton somehow came off entirely and I landed my arse on the very edge of the belay platform. One of my friends booked down the hill and flagged a motorist (I guess the blood from my head looked pretty bad). Search and rescue and 3 hours later and I'm joking around with the ER nurses. Funny thing, I seriously bruised my heel too! For the official report, check out North American Mountaineering Accidents 1996.
Thanks for sharing your stories, be careful out there! Bret and I had a non-eventful time on the FA; however, we also were climbing within our abilities. If was a ground up FA so we didnt know how hard it was going to be but it went just fine. During that erea falling was sometimes a scary proposition, and on some of the routes from that time, it still is a scary proposition.
By Anthony Stout Administrator From: Albuquerque, NM Mar 7, 2008
Hey Ryan, have you ever gotten back onto this route?
This was an interesting day for both of us. I was visiting my family (I now live in New Mexico) and had nobody to climb with, so I met up with Ryan (pretty easy to find partners on the internet!). Fortunately, my #00 is still in OK shape despite being a bit scratched up by Ryan's final whipper:)
I was a little concerned about the walk back to the car over the tallus leading to the area. But Ryan made it just fine. Any remaining problems with that heel?
Tony
By Ryan Brough From: Arvada, Colorado Mar 10, 2008
Tony:
Thanks for checking up on me. The heel is feeling much better, even after beating it up in a belaying accident a few months later.
I'm still planning on finishing up this route, but haven't found someone with the desire to hike through all of that talus with me. Maybe you'll come visit again and we can get it done.
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