Climb up to a small ledge above the belay and slide a nut into the right-facing dihedral. Take your time figuring out the sequence, the pro is far from obvious, as are the holds. The crack is often too small for finger tips and the sections wide enough to stuff your tips in are teeming with Box Elder bugs. Less than intuitive underclings and crimps get you through the crux. Clip the lone bolt on the route and shoot up the dihedral until it peters out to the right. Climb the crack to the right of the pin on Rebel Yell. Rock Capades eventually joins Rebel Yell and the two routes share anchors. Heady lead.
Location
Rock Capades is the route just East of Rebel Yell. Belay up and to the right of the Psychobabble belay on a grassy ledge. Climb in the right-facing dihedral.
Protection
Bring ample RPs, brass and TCUs for the thin sections at the bottom. There is a bolt protecting the runout section. Gear up to a gold camalot will sew up the rest. Shares anchors with Rebel Yell on the left. One rope rappel.
By glen kaplan From: Salt Lake City, UT Nov 6, 2007 rating: 5.10d
I really like this one too...I found it wasn't as steep as some of the other lines on this wall and had to rely on my feet a bit more than on Babble...
I woulnae say this is unusually heady (anymore than the other lines) but it sure takes a few runs or trips to the area just to get use to the flavor here...which is generally steep, technical, and exposed...
Psychobabble Wall
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