This is a super fun crack system with several cruxes and good rests. Its a great route for sport climbers who want to learn how to place gear. It traverses a little and protecting your second is almost more important than protecting yourself so sew it up.
Location
On the left and out of the creek bed about 20 -30 feet upstream from the bolts of Hibatchi time. Look up and left at the anchors of Burning Embers with big fatty chains from which to TR and project that really fun climb. The crack system diaganols up and under a series of roofs for 80? or so feet. There is now a little purple graffiti right by the start.
Protection
Set of cams from tcu's up to hand sized with extra medium cam or two around orange tcu through .5 or .75 camalot and long runners. I also used two old style #4 camalots and would have liked a #5 for the last 10 feet. It isn't mandatory but would be nice. We used our #5 camalot (but a medium nut works) to hang a rope bag at the bottom belay to keep the rope out of the creek. You could get away with a second #3 in place of one of the #4's. Don't be afraid of the large sizes because you use the crack like a jug rail as you traverse up and left. Just think of it as an excuse to drag those big cams that you paid all that money for and haven't actually used in several years. I think a 60m rope would work, but I used a 70.
Tack on another great route! The start now has some faint purple paint (done by some loser). Plug in a peice or two before the first roof and continue up and left to the chains on Burning Embers. There are some spots where it's easy to step down into a no-hands rest, but for the full effect I'd avoid such. Great route. Two stars.
Moss Ledges
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