Above Winky and Waxman Go Bolting, is this newer bolted route. It follows the bolts to chains and is well-protected and exposed. This is Hollow Man on steroids. A great route, a must-do route... Enjoy jamming around that chockstone. This climb is similar to Hollow Man in the sense that it is pretty consistent and very vertical to slightly overhanging; it differs in the sense that there is a harder move and it has way more exposure.
Here is the beta from the FA. At the ledge near the end of the climb, there are two options. 1) Stay left using the ledge 5.10c 2) Stay right---more in line with the bolts. 5.10d. I did the straight line and will stick with my 5.10b rating.
Hi,This route follows a very similar line to a route done ground up, no bolts in about 1985 or so, by yours truly. Check out the Guide it is called Split Seam. Doesnt look exactly like it but kind of squeezed. Just thought you should know.
By glen kaplan From: Salt Lake City, UT Jun 20, 2006 rating: 5.10b/c
Yeah, this is probably one of my FAVORITE climbs in BCC.
It is a flip-flop approach... Rarely too busy...since most only do Winky... Longish, despite the ledge above Winky... Big, overhung moves on big tonka holds... Still gets me pumped eventhough I could tell you that there are approximately 6 different chalked up holds near the top (right) crux that you don't even need to touch...
Yeah...do it!
Oh, and you might as well make it a link-up with Winky's for some added bonus...
Oh x2...esteemed Gary Olsen: my take is that Split Seam is actually a bit to the right (about 10 feet) and first follows the corner/crack of the tower that forms 'Diminishing Returns', tops out past these anchors and transfers back to the main wall via some really steep, really positive climbing into a discontinuous crack system and right facing corner. then, it makes some big moves up and right, through an awesome hand/horizontal crack and finishes at the tight hands/finger crack in the roof. This climb is also about 10 feet left of Pins and Knickers (even the direct line that doesn't start next to hollow man). I'm not sure as I wasn't even climbing 20 years ago, but if you were following any type of natural pro line with 'Split Seam', you probably climbed well right of this route.
Dont take my previous comments as a negative on this route. Certainly seems like this route is fun and popular; whereas, split seam was a scare fest.
By glen kaplan From: Salt Lake City, UT Oct 23, 2006 rating: 5.10b/c
oh come on...I beg to differ!
Split Seam (or at least the trad line that is to the right of 'Better Than Bitter') is awesome! I have done it a handful of times now and it is always a blast.
Except if you choose to top-out to the right. Following the crack up and right is really fun movement, and hard...but it is scary!!!!
I just went and checked out the chains at the top of this climb and noticed that each hanger has a long rapide attached to them. The south hanger has a rapide that goes right over the edge which seems like it would create a bit of leverage to pull out the bolt, also the nut on the bolt was loose or at least not tightened all the way down. Anyone else notice this? I'm not a bolter but maybe it would have been better to put the hangers on the face? Or maybe just attach a smaller rapide to the hanger.
I noticed that the last bolt hanger was VERY loose. I hand tightened it as much as I could. If you are planning on doing this route soon, maybe bring a wrench and tighten that thing down. If no one has by the time I get back there, then I will.
By Tyler King From: Salt Lake, UT Aug 19, 2008 rating: 5.10b
Awesome Climb. One of the best low sport 10's in the canyon! The last bolt is still a spinner. I will be returning shortly for the redpoint and will tighten the nut. I wasted too much energy searching for holds in the dark at the bottom, yes this is a pumpy climb!
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