This is one of all time favorites. It is on the east face of Challenge. It is near the south end before the gully begins. When you get to the fork in the trail, look south and you can see a nice angling hand crack in an arete, just left of this is the face with 1 bolt. This climbs that face utilizing the bolt. It starts right of the bolt and after getting to the bolt it meanders left and then continues up. This is a balance game, pure and simple. How well can you pull up and then place toes in the same crack as your hand. Also you need to be able to stand up from this crouched position with no hands and continue up to find the spaced cracks. This is a wonderful but short climb. Again 3 stars would work but for the length.
Protection
2 chains atop the climb for a good top-rope. 1 bolt on the face. If you can make it to that bolt, bring a couple of small cams or nuts to protect the horizontal cracks the rest of the way.
I finally red-pointed this today. Gear recommendations: .75 Camalot, Purple DMM Micro-Cam, bolt, Metolius #3, Metolius #2. This route felt well protected with all this gear. Enjoy this lead.
By triznuty From: Murray, UT Jul 12, 2005 rating: 5.10
Gear Alert
I think it would be a 3 star if it were just longer. Begins a little powerful and finishes on good jugs.
That bolt is an old buttonhead, but fine. No need to panic!!! I whipped on it and I am 6'4, 255. A fine candidate for replacement, but not super sketchy.
don't let the 10d rating scare you away from this one. i don't feel that it is a true 10d based on other Big cottonwood climbs i've done. One of my all time favorite climbs though- maybe just a 5.9+. fun balancing moves all the way to the top. Crux for me was just after the bolt.
By Ryan Peterson From: North Salt Lake, Utah Jul 10, 2007
Didn't feel too difficult to me, but then, I only TRed it. Quite a few fun variations, you can start below to the left or right of the bolt, and head left or right above it.
By john richards From: salt lake city UT Apr 21, 2008 rating: 5.10c/d
fun climb! short. All i did was put a #2 metolious master cam in a few feet above the bolt than walked it to the chains. feels more like a boulder problem.
East Face
RSS Feed
