walk up as if your were trying to get behind the p...
Description
This route is on the main wall on the right end of the cliff approx. 100 left of a pinnacle. Look for the obvious, prominent crack.
Pitch one, 5.6:Climb the crack, with good protection up to the anchors. If memory serves me correctly, I believe I passed what appeared to be a rappel anchor and belayed on a sandy notch/ledge. But obviously use your best judgement.
Pitch two, 5.5:Continue up and move slightly to the left until your rope runs out or to a convenient belay spot.
Pitch three, 5.5:Continue straight up to the top of the cliff or angle left on easier ramps moving upward to gain the top of the cliff.
The last two pitches are obviously easier than the first, however the protection is a little bit harder to come by, so beginners (or the responsible) should not pass up placements on the last two pitches.
To the motivated bolt placing experienced climber: This is a great wall, but the descent takes away from the experience. In my humble opinion, a bolted rappel line down this wall would benefit the community. I would be willing to help anyone that feels comfortable in that role.
Descent (two options):Head south (left) from the top of the wall to a gully which is the southern end of the main wall. Two 60 foot rappels are needed to reach the base of the wall. The gully however is full of really big loose rocks, etc. and makes the descent seem kind of sketchy.
Or
Continue south to the next gully that seems appealing and downclimb back to the base of the wall. This isn't much fun either, but you don't have to rappel.
By Peter Gram Administrator From: Salt Lake City, UT Jun 13, 2004
Apparently, there is now a rap route (2 ropes probably necessary) down this route. Chain anchors are in place approx. 150 feet up, and again up higher. Also, a big horn after 100 feet has rap slings to get to the ground with a 60m rope.
The bolted easy route III, DOWN AND DIRTY DOUBLECROSS, 5.6-7 to the top pf the cliff located about 100 feet to the left of the Jam Crack allows 5 bolted rappels with a single 60m rope. This should serve as an easy and quick rap route for all Mule Hollow routes on this side. should not be difficult to locate if searching from the top.
By Shaun Greene From: www.UtahShaun.com Jun 12, 2006
This is a route not to be missed. We did the rappel using two 60 meter ropes. This will allow you to rappel past the first set of ancbors you come to. At the third set of chains make a short rappell then from the next set of chains you can rappel past the next set of anchors and be on the ground.
I would suggest climbing past the first set of anchors and assend to the anchors that have chains and a nicer area to belay from not to far from the first set. Pull the overhangy mess becuase it's their. Go straight up to the top, you will be able to see some chains 100 feet to the left and half way up that belong to another climb don't go for them like I did.
Unless you are looking for more of an alpine experience, I'd take an extra rope an rap at the chains after the first long pitch. It's not that the next two pitches aren't fun, they are just extremely mild, but the rock is excellent. Beware of raspberry bushes.
A single 60m rope will work on the decent rap for all but the THIRD rap. It comes up about 10 ft shy of the next anchor.
By Tosh Peters From: Park City, UT Oct 11, 2007 rating: 5.6 PG13
the first pitch is worth the hike and the second two are really good too if your confident pretty far above gear. the aformentioned rap route is scary with a 60 meter rope as the 3rd rap is too long. we did it in a little over 7 hours car to car and didnt see a single other climber. definitly cool.
By Texaswall From: Salt Lake City, UT Aug 18, 2008
After reading john's comment above that suggests skipping the first anchors that one comes upon, I found myself at the end of a 70m rope, establishing a gear belay. I saw no other anchors on the way up, so be smarter than I was, and stop in the alcove below the "overhangy mess" and take advantage of the chains. From there, go up, trend left, and find another very comfy belay ledge with chains. Straight up from there, between the very visible last chains of "Down and Dirty" on the face and the gully on the right, is easy climbing on some remarkable holds with ample protection. Chains on the top of D & D were obvious.
Mule Hollow Wall
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