BETA PHOTO: Topo of the business of the route with bolts in re...
Description
This route climbs the steep headwall to the right of Wienie Roast and crosses through the route Sunday Brunch. It has great movement on mixed bolts and gear (like the other routes at Moss Ledges). This route can be easily viewed atop the dryfall opposite the stream from the other routes.
Location
This route starts about 10-15 feet to the right of Wienie Roast and climbs 5.7 or 8-ish up to a white arete roof where the bolts (and the steepness)begin. It ends atop the apex the long roof with the chains 5' to the right.
Protection
The lower face takes some cams with long runners to reduce drag. Just above the white face and the overlap, clip 2 bolts moving left and then right on the cool arete and cracks, place a medium cam, another bolt then several hand sized cams as you traverse directly across the route "Sunday Brunch". The crux is the upper headwall with a nice finger sized piece then two more bolts. You'll want to sew it up and it takes a ton of gear. The chains are just to the right of the apex of the route on the clean, hard rock up there. One set of cams between blue or yellow tcu through #3 camalot. I only used nuts or long runners on the bottom approach climbing. I like a 70m rope but haven't checked to see if a 60 works.
This route is fun, you wouldn't expect such a good route hidden in this area but both the routes on this wall are a great time. I have worked most of the route and it is still a little over my head. the Gear and bolts are good. Working the moves is a blast. I would recommend it.
To be humble: I, Bryce Perkins, actually did not ascend this route. It is over my abilities for now. Clay gave me credit as I had a fun time equipping the route with him. It looks like a lot of fun though, and is very steep. Go big and all that.
This little beauty took someone who was paying attention to find it. It has great movement, fun bouldery sequences with the need for some pretty serious endurance. It definitely earns the grade.