Climb up an easy slab towards the left edge of the roof band. Enter the left-facing corner and enjoy the fun moves. Lieback and stem to conquer the crack and two small roof pulls. There is a small arête inside the corner that leaves you feeling a little exposed. The climbing eases out at the top, unless you climb out on the face and head for the anchors (not recommended due to hollow-sounding flakes).
Location
Climb up from the belay tree over an easy slab to the obvious dihedral. Follow the cracks to the top of the wall and traverse East to the slings. A 60 meter rope is needed to descend to the belay tree.
Protection
Medium gear at the bottom. Wide gear for the top. No bolts. There is a fixed pin at the top of Le Rap Et Tap along with slings for the descent.
By glen kaplan From: Salt Lake City, UT Sep 15, 2006
This really is a great climb, well worth doing, with fantastic poisition and air in that section of the canyon.
We set up a hanging belay to the left of the tree as it was a more comfortable belay and provided a straighter line for the rope.
On the rap, we did two raps to a loose ledge...that heads off back towards Challenge Buttress instead of scrambling down the ledges towards Narcolepsy.
Ok route with good gear. Nice to have at least one 3.5 size C4 (or equivalent). Each cool section is too short lived to be a great route. Really needs a good solid anchor at the top. Getting to the start and getting off can be a pain. Really wish there was a route or two over the big roof...
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