East facing and near vertical sport routes with edges and funky moves. Lichen exists on this cliff, but will clean up in time. Also, it seemed that all the 1st bolts were oh so high.
Getting There
Follow the approach for The Penguin. This is the east-facing wall that is "slightly" up the wall from the Penguin. Expect a hot, dry hike, with lots of loose talus.
There are now 4 routes on the wall. I am not sure what the left most route is rated but it sure ain't no 5.9!! The 5.9 is the second route from the left. The only routes with what I would consider "high" first bolts were the 5.9 and 10a.
Also, watch that first bolt on the Penguin (old rusty, spinner barely hanging on in a seam) - it really needs replacing.
Sorry to take too long for this. Here is the information of the Tear Garden routes in order from left to right:
#1: Feels like the first time 5.10a **FA John Rogers/ Dave Moore 10/99 (Dave Moore First First Ascent)
#2: Cleanse, Fold, And Manipulate 5.9** (if you use the crack on the left at the end) or 5.10** (if you go straight up the bolted face at the top) FA John Rogers 7/99
#3 The Centre Bullet 5.10d *** FA John Rogers 10/98
#4 The Greater Wrong Of The Right 5.11b** FA Brandon Wicks/ John Rogers5/99(anyone pick up on the "skinny puppy" theme??)
I do have a topo/ photo, and will try to find a way to post it here in a few days.
i did not feel that the approach was worth the climbing. the rock is dirty and broken in many places. the first bolt on the 5.9 route is high. the belay stance is also unconfortable and unsafe. not any room for a spotter. i pulled a hold out of the wall and experienced my first groundfall ever just below the first bolt on the 5.9. too bad whoever bolted this climb did not consider saftey as a factor on such a dirty, loose climb. i do not suggest visiting the area.
I am curious, with a name like Tear Garden, I expected climb names like "Crystal Mass", "In Search Of My Rose" or perhaps "To Be An Angel Blind." But the only apparent connection here is "Cleanse, Fold, Manipulate" a Skinny Puppy album title. I suppose Cevin Key was part of both projects. Is that the connection or is there some other thing I have missed? The "Feels Like the First Time" title seems a little Foreign on this wall (snicker).
Oh, and I just noticed 'Greater Wrong of the Right,' S.P's last effort, which I found lacking. Maybe because it was more Key and less Ogre?
Tear Garden
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