BETA PHOTO: Blue backpack marks where the trail comes off (Lef...
Description
This east facing wall is excellent for moderate traditional leaders. The wall is 500 feet high and has at least 13 routes on it, most of those in the 5.5 to 5.8 range. While only a 45 minute approach from the road in Big Cottonwood Canyon, you will find great seclusion. It feels remote and alpine. If you want multi pitch climbing and to escape the crowds, this wall is for you.
Getting There
Park at the pullout just after crossing the creek .2 miles up canyon from the Storm Mountain Picnic area. Hike up the canyon due north for 3/4 a mile. Look for the wall to your left. Avoid cutting up the slope too soon. Look for talus fields or for a semi-obvious trail. Leaving the main trail and heading up towards the wall is a bit of a pain. It is steep, and not very enjoyable, but remember... you are escaping the crowds!
This route is on the main wall on the right end of the cliff approx. 100 left of a pinnacle. Look for the obvious, prominent crack.Pitch one, 5.6:Climb the crack, with good protection up to the anchors. If memory serves me correctly, I believe I passed what appeared to be a rappel anchor and belayed on a sandy notch/ledge. But obviously use your best judgement.Pitch two, 5.5:Continue up and move slightly to the left until your rope runs out or...[more]
By cdec From: slc, ut May 29, 2008 CONDITION REPORT
So the Candy Cane tree is down. Don't bother looking for it. We overshot the turn and ran down being chased by lightning. Going back this weekend to climb and get good approach beta.
By Peter Gram Administrator From: Salt Lake City, UT Jun 13, 2004
The last part of the approach is a little tedious. I had a bit of trouble finding the side trail up to the wall, but eventually figured it out. Along the way, there are 2 cairns along the left side of the trail. Take the somewhat obscure spur at the second cairn. This is right before a stream crossing. Follow the trail up through talus and maybe some bushwhacking to get to the wall.
Once you get to the approach that leads up to the wall from the main trail it gets pretty steep for a while. When you hit the wall just skirt accross it to get to the climb you want. Climbs around Jam Crack require a little bit of a scram, not bad though.
Nathan's approach versus the Ruckman approach. Verdict=follow the candycane tree, unless you prefer loose talus. Nathan's route has more switchbacks, shade, and fewer steep spots.
Mule Hollow Wall
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