This may be an old route that was retro-bolted (the FA reported that there were no indications that it had been climbed before). The first pitch climbs the face to the left of the Amphitheater Overhang (2 bolts) and moves out and around a small roof crux (1 bolt). You can either hop over the arete above the overhang or remain in the short dihedral. Then, walk over to the chains on the East-facing slab. Continue up the arete past several more bolts. There is a small runout section before a piton that can be protected with gear, but I ran it out for fun. I thought that this was a mostly 5.6 climb with a few 5.7 moves, but I gave it the + because my buddy insists that the roof is 5.8.
Location
Between Amphitheater Left Overhang and the Flake. Look for two bolts facing North and another bolt facing East. You can see the belay chains above the Amphitheater Overhang Right. Walking off is faster and easier than making two rappels off (unless you have a 70 meter rope which barely gets you down).
Protection
~7 bolts, 1 piton, and 2 chains at each belay. Small to medium pro for the runout sections.
This route was great fun. I led the 2 pitches in one as the rope drag aint too bad. The upper arete/face is exposed and has some classic beautiful rock. And, yes, it is a wee bit runout one the 2nd pitch, but easy climbing with large foot holds. Lowering off the anchor up top may not be a good idea as the arete to the right is VERY sharp.
A 70m rope gets you down to the base of Big in Japan with one 110' rappell. Really fun 5.7 on cool rock. Gotta love the bicolor 70m rope but don't lower off that sharp arete.
By RoadTripRyan From: Salt Lake City, UT Aug 16, 2008
After the roof, there is also a bolted line up the arete on the left. Anyone know what's it's called? Felt about 5.7 as well.
Sections of this route have probably been climbed before. A #1 TCU helps on the 2nd pitch.
"Really fun 5.7 on cool rock." ...sounds like a 1 star route huh?
For some reason, I really like this route. IMO it's 2-3 stars
By Arie Leeflang From: North Korea Oct 2, 2008 rating: 5.7
Second pitch made the route. A couple of moves you are forced right to the edge of the arete with some unexpected exposure. New fav on the island! Thanks for the boltage.
By Jerome Sharpe From: Cottonwood Heights, UT Sep 29, 2009
Immediately to the left of Ampitheater Left Overhang. Fun, 5.7 climbing on first pitch with maybe one or two 5.8- moves near the roof. Second pitch is 5.6, very fun, very aesthetically pleasing rock. Second half of second pitch definitely run out, but not really uncomfortably so. Nice view from the top, easy walk off. Two and a half stars.
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