This is probably a much better climb in the later afternoon and evening. We made the mistake of climbing this on a hot morning in direct sun. We were planning on climbing both pitches, but ran out of water (and time). The first pitch is continuously difficult with the hardest climbing in the lower two-thirds. The small roof below the belay ledge can easily be overcome with good footwork. This is a good climb for those that don't get pumped on Glass Ocean and want to top out next to the "diving board". I'll have to add more details once I complete the second pitch.
Location
The direct start for Northwest Passage consists of the first two bolts of Glass Ocean. Continue straight up instead of traversing right on the ledge (Glass Ocean). Follow six more bolts to the anchor on the ledge 100 feet from the ground. There should be 2 pins at the "diving board" atop the second pitch. A two rope rappel is required.
Protection
15 draws if lead in one pitch, plus a standard trad rack to fill in the blanks. We set up a top rope on the top of the first pitch with a 60 meter rope (barely long enough). Trad gear is needed to pull the roof before reaching the bolts on the second pitch.
This really is a fun way up to the diving board. The face moves are all there on nicely featured ripples of quartzite. You can almost imagine the bottom of a sandy ocean or a sand dune turned on its side. techy/balancy. pulling the roof is fun and has great pro. Like all the routes up there, its best to do it in one long pitch.
oh - and its not hot early in the morning but it is kind of as far from the car as you want to get if you're looking to get to work on time.
By Nathan Fisher Administrator Aug 1, 2006 rating: 5.10c PG13
2nd pitch shows 8 bolt, there might be less than that. It starts in the wide crack right of the anchors. #2 Camalot size and less. Some exciting moves through that crack, then you start the leftward shuffle and clipping bolts. Don't go too far left and clip the lone bolt of High Dive (I did), or you will have to back track and waste good arm strength. It then climbs through another technical area onto a smooth polished smedgy face. As you cross the hand traverse on High Dive (only good rest on the upper face), plug a piece. Follow the bolts to the thin crack ignoring the bent 1/4"er above High Dive's hand traverse. This upper face is way fuin, but very tough. In fact the 1st pitch goes at 5.9(+) and is a nice 1 pitch route for a bit harder version of Glass Ocean. The 2nd pitch is very consistently hard 5.10, whether it's roof pulling, steep hand crack, technical traversing, or slope-y fingertip crimps.
By Stan Pitcher From: SLC, UT Oct 2, 2008 rating: 5.10c
One pitch?!?! I think it would be pretty difficult to do the balancy moves at the top with all that rope weight. I'd recommend doing it in two. Tsunami is a greate way to get to the belay ledge. I think a .75, 1, & 2 camalot is sufficient for the crack and a couple of long runners there will help too.
Glass Ocean and Environs
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