Belay out of the terrace in the middle of the stream bed by clipping a couple of bolts on vertical rock. Then easier climbing with gear placements up through a gap in a diagonal roof system with great medium gear(.9+). Step right and onto the upper headwall and finish on this headwall with two bolts at about 11a. However, it is a lot more fun to follow the diagonalling finger crack (5.9) up and left for 20-30 feet. Then around that face to easier ground cutting back right to the apex of the upper face. Two bolts with chains for the anchors that you can't see from the ground. A 60 meter rope just makes it back to the ground for the rappel so be careful when lowering or buy a 70. Its nice to belay the second from the sunporch up and out of the creek and pulling the rope from there drops it onto the tree and keeps it out of the creek.
Location
This route is about 50 feet to the right of the last picnic tables and the route Wienie Roast. It starts right out of the stream bed and the belay has just enough dry rocks for your rope bag.
Protection
Two bolts, standard rack, long draws. The .11a finish has two more bolts and you kinda have to connect the dots.
This route is REALLY good. It is SOLID 5.9+ (unlike a lot of newer routes that seem very easy for the grade). Kudos to the FA's for seeing the line. I've walked by this several times and didn't have the vision. The start is obvious with the two bolts. Then climb easier rock up and right until you get into a steep left-facing dihedral. Place a bomber cam or two and punch the crux. After latching a "thank God" bucket, go up and slightly right (by a bush or some sort of plant life). Then follow the leftward traversing crack to keep it 5.9. This crack starts big (jamming optional) and narrows to finger locks. Hope this description wasn't redundant.
Moss Ledges
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