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Blockbuster 

5.10d

   

FA: Jim, Tomi Howe 1989
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10d [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 60 feet
Views: 140 page views

Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 3, 2006


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Making that 2nd clip.


Description 

On the Northeast face is one bolted line. Blockbuster climbs this line until the bolts end and then it can be protected with gear. A very insecure route with a pump, and technical climbing as well. The major negative of this route is some loose rock on it. The crux is after bolt 2, but the entire bolted section is tough, either reachy or technical, and the rock surface down low is polished glass. After the bolt, you are still looking at easy 10 climbing, and kind of pumpy. The book called this one a 5.10c, I am saying 5.10d.


Location 

On the NE face, there is only one bolted line that climbs into a sort of a slot, just left of some large roofs.


Protection 

3 draws for the route, 2 more for the (new) chains, and not small gear for the crack. Medium to small, but nothing too small is needed. Runners are very helpful as there are roofs.



Add Photo Photos of Blockbuster
Making that 3rd clip, in some sort of strange, behind the back fashion.

Making that 3rd clip, in some sort of strange, beh...

Liebacking through the start of the trad section.  Watch the polished glass feet.

Liebacking through the start of the trad section. ...

Blockbuster

BETA PHOTO: Blockbuster

Blockbuster w/o lines

BETA PHOTO: Blockbuster w/o lines