Looking down from the top of Epic Wall. My wife i...
Description
This climbs the large wall well to the right of Goodro's. It is east-facing. The route has many variations, so enjoy. The 1st pitch tends to have dirty, chossy, rock with plenty of bushes. The 2nd pitch makes it worth it, with exposure and clean cracks.Hike off for the descent.
Protection
Bring a standard rack, and gear for anchors. We found 2 older pitons on the route, there may be more... who knows?
I placed a piton in this route back in the early 90s.
It was a TALON as I recall, and it is on the second pitch, about 15 or 20 feet to the RIGHT of the ascending crack.
Its in a small crack that does not run the entire length of this pitch variation, but it allows you to do this right hand pitch and get a little more exposure on the second pitch without having to run it out.
It was bomber then. I remember doing it with a ball peen hammer ducktaped to a runner, hanging off my harness, and standing there with my last clip off in the crack, (non-bomber, lol).
I also soled this route a lot back then, but not the right hand variation. I stayed close to the crack on the second pitch, although I ALWAYS pulled the little roof at the top of the first pitch, right before the ledge.
It was always a fun route, and beautiful at the top. Great walk off to a fun 30 foot boldering spot.
It also makes a great training route for trad climbers. It was the first trad route I ever did.
By Ryan Brough From: Arvada, Colorado Jun 29, 2007 rating: 5.5
Can be led in one pitch with a 70 meter rope. Just runner stuff long and the rope drag isn't so bad.