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La Creme De Shorts 

5.9

   

FA: Unknown
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.9 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 70 feet
Views: 686 page views

Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 20, 2003


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You and this route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Climing Creme de Shorts.


Description 

Approach as per Layback Crack. This climbs the right trending crack in the face. Finger to hand climbing that proved to be very strenuous. This climb is beautiful nonetheless.


Protection 

2 chains atop for the anchors. Standard rack, avoiding the small stuff and the larger stuff. My 1st piece was a nut and the rest were SLCD's (more out of convenience than neccesity).



Add Photo Photos of La Creme De Shorts
4. Layback Crack (5.5) at Storm Mtn Picnic Area

BETA PHOTO: 4. Layback Crack (5.5) at Storm Mtn Picnic Area

Another pic of Creme de Shorts.

Another pic of Creme de Shorts.

TR'ing my nephew from Houston. His first real rock (only gyms in Houston), no beta, and a bit off-route :) What did we tape up for again?

TR'ing my nephew from Houston. His first real roc...

2nd clip (already over-protecting)

2nd clip (already over-protecting)

I didn't even realized how much I stemmed until I looked at the photos.

I didn't even realized how much I stemmed until I ...

Love the jamming on this route.

Love the jamming on this route.

1st face holds

1st face holds

la creme de shorts

BETA PHOTO: la creme de shorts


Add Comment Comments on La Creme De Shorts
Show which comments —
By Vince Romney
Jun 2, 2004
rating: 5.9

Did this again on Memorial Day, and I forgot how cool this is! Bomber jams, slight overhang, and killer stems for stances while placing pro. This is a great pre-climb for Goodro's. Stemming saves the arms.

By Mark Michaels
From: Midvale, UT
Jun 4, 2004

Agree with Vince! This climb may spank some unsusupecting 5.9 leaders (like it did me a couple years ago). Be ready to crank from the start. Really too short to get 2 stars, but better than a 1 star, so what the hell.

By Nathan Fisher
Administrator
Aug 23, 2004

Finally lead this...What a pump. I was almost more pumped than after Goodro's.

By Nathan Fisher
Administrator
Aug 23, 2004

Almost forgot, the chain anchors are not in the best position for this climb. A natural anchor can be had easily.

By Bruce Neumann
From: Bountiful, UT
Oct 17, 2005
rating: 5.9

I finally did this climb and it is a great one. If it were only a little longer. Nice jams and fun stemming.

By Arie Leeflang
From: City of Salt
Aug 3, 2007

The first 20-25 feet is the beef of the climb. Then it turns to classic BCC 5.8. Quality.