Jack the Ripper 

The first chance to place pro on this route is right at the coffin zone. Climb it on toprope or be sure your insurance is paid in full. Adding just one bolt to this route would make it safe, sane, and fun.

Not all climbs need to be safe sane and fun. Plenty of those around.

Safety and sanity are relative terms. What is considered the coffin zone to some, is the pleasure zone for others. Some of us appreciate and enjoy the challenges presented by commiting routes. If this route was established in a bold style, changing it to compensate for a lack of skill and boldness is unacceptable. Walk away from it until you are up to the challenge.

Okay, Ken, I'll put this in simple terms, so you can understand it. The coffin zone means that if you fall before you get your first piece of gear in this route, you will probably die. And that's dangerous, in anyone's book.My comment is beta on the route. You fall, you probably die. It's a fact. Hence the reason for "X" ratings.

And no one, not you, not Chris freaking Sharma, is going to dictate how I'm going to climb a route. If I feel like bolting it, I'll bolt it. You want to yank the bolt, yank the bolt. In the mean time, stop telling everyone what to think.

Lee, you have now turned this into a personal vendetta, because you have an issue with me. I suggest you put it to rest immediately. These routes have already been established in a time-honored fashion. You have no right to retro-bolt traditionally established routes. You really had better come to grips with your attitiude, because I am postive that I do not stand alone on this issue. If you feel some need to lash out at me, drop me an Email. I will give you my phone number, and we can discuss it on the phone or in person, like adults. Do not use this website to air your dirty laundry. It is not fair to the others. Email me at: ken_cangi@yaoo.com, and I will give you my phone number. In the meantime, take a deep breath, because this is not a life or death situation. KC

Ken what if a teenage kid decides to climb this and falls before they get good gear in and dies. In the name of saftey for the kids of Salt Lake add the bolt.

On a different note I heard Drew was talking about maybe adding a bolt here and there to some of his older/bolder routes. I think this is one of his routes. If some bolts start appearing on his routes they might be placed by him. Although I think he may have decided not to do this.

I would disagree, Phil. Plenty of good routes that beg to be climbed. Penetentiary Wall is not an area where kids are goofing around learning to climb. A tragedy with a kid would be terrible. Unfortunately, us bolting every route out there won't save the lives of the dumb ones. Whereas, I would love to lead this route, with a bolt, I would rather wait until I have the cajones (sp) to do it the way it is.

P.S. Since everyone has been getting insulted. Please don't.

Nate, it was making a joke. Sorry it didn't come off that way to all.