Winky and Waxman Go Bolting 

Just went up and did it again today. Be aware that the last left handhold, before the ledge is suspect. It seemed solid enough to me, but it is definitely loose.

Feels like an 11a - because it is so short. Any idea if there is a rating on the v scale?

I heard that the "hold" is gone, but no more difficult.

led it last night ... the "hold" is still there and feels the same as it did 2 years ago ... from what i remember

that 'hold' is still there and will probably be there for a good while...

just cause it is shaky doesn't mean everyone has to get all puckered...

hell, you might as well use it as a high left foot too!

I would have a hard time calling that a 5.11 I would say the rating is around a 10c. Better rated as a boulder problem at V1. However rated though it is a enjoyable little problem to get on.

Bolt #3 is a bit loose on this guy.

Didn't seem too tough to me, third bolt is a spinner though, and I used that loose rock for a hold and it seemed fine.

Lost it at the top my first try, but mantled the second try and made it up. That mantle at the top makes it all worth it, great climb.

For those who think this is rated harder than it is, there are a bunch of chalk marks in the crack off to the right of the bolt line. If you use either the crack or the rock face to the right this climb is more like an 8.

If you do the sit start and climb the bolt line (as if you were leading) and stay out of the crack it definitely feels like 5.11 moves. Sure its short, but if you had a sustained 5.9 with this section, it would definitely be rated an 11.

I have a hard time calling this more than a 10c. dont get me wrong though FUN FUN FUN. skip the first bolt. If you fall above it your gonna hit the deck anyway.

Fun short climb. Worth a run up. Not quite 11b, in my opinion it is a highball V2. Regardless, it is a fun little route.

We usually link the Winky and Waxman line with the newer (meaning not in the guide)5.10'ish long line next to it. Anyone know if this has a name?

Better than Bitter

OOOOOOH BOY. As of 10/24/08 the cool block that's loose is dead. Makes for a bit harder of a topout but geeze... that hold gave that route character. I'm bummed.

yeah, I couldn't believe the block is gone, the hole where it was is a big hold now, so it didn't seem any harder.

This is a pretty reasonable highball boulder problem, especially since you can get it wired on a rope first. Watch out for the back-breaking boulder at the bottom!