This starts in the corner just right of Fall Equinox. It continues onto the arete, and climbs this to the rock-filled ledge. It then switches to a face and works this to the anchors. Fun moves on this climb.
Protection
2 bolts for the anchors, plus 9 draws. I also used a medium nut to protect the initial moves. Rappel off, but beware of the ledge at 2/3's height, as it contains numerous loose rocks. They WILL fall.
By Andrew Gram Administrator From: Denver, CO Nov 7, 2004 rating: 5.9+
Interesting route that will keep cleaning up. Easiest way through the upper section is not obvious and the route is 5.9 if that is found. Could easily have been a trad route with maybe one or two bolts to supplement.
Andrew Gram,You must be a very good trad climber. If you think the route has unnecessary bolts, I suggest you not bother clipping them. Carry your cams and nuts and place those, instead.
Just did this and Andrew is right. loads of easy gear with great stems that make it easy to place. It makes nice a 5.9 gear route - especially if you use the upper crack where the best moves on the route are. Its always surprising to see chalked up grovelly chimney next to an unchalked splitter jug crack.
By glen kaplan From: Salt Lake City, UT Aug 31, 2006 rating: 5.9
Again, I just did this route after a long hiatus. I agree that the route totally can go with gear (and maybe there would be a short section after the initial crack that has tricky gear or a bit runout--but who cares, the holds and stances are bomber (bomber does not equal solid quality rock, it means HUGE)). And you can camp on the ledge.
The crack moves up high are the best on the route but watch out, the crack is quite sharp. If you don't do crack, then you can grovel a bit in the chimney to the left.
This one is also a bit contrived as the natural line really is to the right in the crack, but we did the arete too and its alright/harder.
I do crack.
By icsteveoh From: salt lake city, UT Jul 20, 2007 rating: 5.9
Looks like a new bolt was added for the top ledge crack area... Why not fix the top anchors instead of add that bolt? Anyone? whats the deal with the super offset anchor bolts right on top of each other with the spiderweb of chains and locking biners?
its a shame to see bolts next to perfectly good crack. would be a much better climb left to its natural state. If i am throwing jams, i should be throwing gear as well.
Ross, so what kind of Cams or nuts did you place? A gear list would be appreciated with your comments. Or did someone force you to clip the bolts way off to the left protecting the face moves (another climb, really?)?
The crack and the arete are two different routes that meet up at the first ledge, and they should be protected differently IMO. I watched some guy fall onto the boulder to the left of the arete with his ribs breaking the fall while trying to hit the first bolt from the crack. First bolt is easy to reach from the arete but the crack eats up small gear allowing you to skip the first three bolts. I got a small nut down low and then a couple of smaller cams up higher (0.4-1). and used the bolts for the rest.
Dam Wall
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