This climb starts on the left-facing crack, right of Tax Evasion. After the left-facer jogs right, it climbs the thin crack in the face to the tree or higher. The book calls it a 5.7?, I felt more like a 5.6. Not too much excitement on the route, as it climbs like a face climb with crack protection.
Protection
There are slings around a horn up top. Gear on the route is a standard rack. Either bring some medium to small cams or be good at nutcraft, as the crack tends to be parallel.
Nothing much to rave about here. Lots of places to rest or stem. 5.7 seems too generous. 5.6 is probably more accurate, but do yourself a favor and go climb schoolroom instead. Don't make the scramble up to Penetentiary for this route.
Penitentiary Wall
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