Mule Hollow Wall Approach: About 100 feet left of Jam Crack Down Dirty Double Cross F.A: 6.23.05, Kris Pietryga and James Garrett Protection: QDs and small selection camalots Pitch #1: Start in a clearing at one of the bigger sections of the wall. Climb pockets and edges past 4 bolts to a two bolt belay. 5.7, 30m. Pitch #2: Continue straight up passing three bolts to a ledge and two bolt belay. Cool sculpted rock and pockets. 5.6, 30m. Pitch #3: Aim for the left edge of a bushy ledge passing 2 bolts on the way. 5.5, 30m. Pitch #4: The face becomes quite broken. Many protection options exist, but you may find one bolt protecting this pitch. 5.4, 30m. Pitch #5: Romp up the final 20m to the top of the wall, no bolts, but two-bolt belay. 5.3, 20m Rappel the route
Great route - last two pitches can be linked up, the rest are probably better done separately. Approach is a pain, keep an eye out for the cairns on the trail - after the first one (its big 18" tall) the second one marks the point you turn left uphill. Go to the top of the talus and then follow a trail of sorts to the next big talus field. from the top of that you follow and trail of sorts to the base of the wall. Once at the base you have to get to the top of a ledge walk up the side at the base of the rock and then switchback back up to the top of the ledge. (it'll make sense once you get up there) Last 10' felt spicier than 5.3, but other than that the route description above is very accurate, esp pitch length.
On the rap down be sure to tie knots when going down from #3 (ledge w/ trees) to #2, my rope's (60m) tails just made it to the #2 rap station. Other than that great route - the 8mm cord used at the anchors needs to be inspected next season. *
The chain is in. The rappel from the tree ledge is perhaps 31-32m long, so one does come up a tad short to the next rap using one 60m rope. I found it to be no problem by reaching down and clipping my daisy into the next anchor. But be sure to tie knots at the very end of your rap lines. The anchor can be extended sometime in the future if this proves problematic for most parties.
By Ryan Brough From: Arvada, Colorado Sep 4, 2006 rating: 5.7
Fantastic climbing, makes the grueling hike worth it. I beleive that this bolt line follows the same general line as The Center Face (5.6R). There are plenty of protection opportunities, so the bolts aren't really necessary. However, on the first two pitches, the bolts pull you out of the easy crack on to the more exposed face to the right (5.7). So, the bottom line is that I have mixed feelings about the bolting of this route. The climb certainly doesn't need bolts given the ample protection (even if it is a little runout in spots). The bolt line does remain about 5-10 feet to the left of The Center Face, so it is a different route (not a retro-bolt). I do appreciate the rappel stations. I have rappeled with two different 60 meter ropes and both came up short on the third rappel, so perhaps the chains do need adjusting.
For anyone finding this climb to be run out, ample and easy gear placements are abundantly available and good practice on this "transition route" for those new climbers trending toward trad. No worries!
Wow. What a great route!!! How you could give this route less than three stars is beyond me. 500 feet of 5.7 and easier climbing up absolutely stellar rock with jugs the whole way... Really, I'm asking, how could it get better? Between the bolts and natural gear you can pretty much get pro whenever you want it. We did the route in three pitches, linking 1 and 2, doing pitch 3 by itself (drag was bad), and combining 4 and 5. Kudos to James for putting up such a stellar line! Super fun.
Great route with super clean rock. Probably the best route on the wall. A small selection of cams was useful for the 3rd pitch and the 5th. James I think I owe you a high five.
By Craig Martin From: Park City, UT Oct 23, 2009 rating: 5.7
After climbing this again as well as the Center Face, I don't think they are the same route. I believe the Center Face is just left of this route aprox. 10'-15'. At least that is what I have climbed and thought of as The Center Face. The anchors do detract from the experience on Center Face as they are basically in the same places you would belay for both routes, but if you have done the other descents you will appreciate them. As said before, great route on great rock. Bring a 70m rope.
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