Left of Glass Ocean is a gully with a wide crack at it's terminus. Tsunami climbs this, angling right to the bolts that are left of Glass Ocean. It then surmounts a series of roofs. Footwork is, as always, integral. This climb utilizes thin edges all the way up through all the roofs. This is probably the best way to start High Dive. There is one additional bolt than what the Ruckman guide shows.
Protection
5 bolts and a 3 bolt anchor, if you aim for the top of Northwest Passage's 1st pitch. A piece at the initial overlap wouldn't hurt (.75 size).
Between the wide crack and the bolts for Glass Ocean is a really nice face with great edges and sinker nut placements. This is a nicer, less grovelly way to get to the first bolts of Tsunami. If you remember to use lots of long runners, do it in the dark and link it all the way to the top of the High Dive you've got yourself a 3-star climb!
By icsteveoh From: salt lake city, UT Jun 28, 2008 rating: 5.10b
Otherwise you have a kinda weird route with a goofy top out.
By Stan Pitcher From: SLC, UT Oct 2, 2008 rating: 5.10b
I'd recommend starting on Glass Ocean and angling left from the ledge after the first two bolts on it.
By Taylor Ogden From: Salt Lake City, Utah Aug 30, 2009 rating: 5.10b
Doesn't look like much from below, but when you get up on the route, there's a lot of fun to be had. You're super exposed, kind of dangling from this roof system, which is way fun, but the holds are all where you need them and are consistently positive.
If you are in the area, make sure to give this one a shot!
This climb is slightly awkward in the beginning. You need three to four small quad cams for the first quarter of the climb, which is possibly a 5.8; you can do the first three bolts of the 5.9 climb right next to it, but I recommend doing the route the setters intended on doing because there is a really fun undercling move. Prepare to have a lot of fun once you hit the first bolt. I believe the reason this climb was set is because there is a gratuitous amount of exposure once you go over the roof. It is really exciting and there are great holds to power over all of the roofs. Enjoy...
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