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Tie Die 

Private Hell 

5.10a

   

FA: Brian Smoot, Bret Ruckman 1990
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.10a/b [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 60 feet
Views: 274 page views

Submitted By: David Shiembob on Jul 9, 2005


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The 2nd clip on this route is tenuous and scary.


Description 

Fun traversing line. Third fully bolted line on Millstone (counting from the bottom). The crux is around the first bolt. Edgy face climbing that ends by wrapping around a corner to the anchors, which feels pretty exposed. Fun, and the follower can take some big swings if they pop soon after unclipping a bolt.


Protection 

4 bolts to chain anchors



Add Photo Photos of Private Hell
1) Private Hell<br />2) Tie Die

BETA PHOTO: 1) Private Hell
2) Tie Die


Private Hell and Tie Die w/o lines.

BETA PHOTO: Private Hell and Tie Die w/o lines.

Making that 3rd clip.

Making that 3rd clip.

Me on lead.

Me on lead.

Almost to the top!

Almost to the top!

Me on lead.

Me on lead.

Naomi on TR, Tyson belaying.

Naomi on TR, Tyson belaying.

Naomi getting some decent air time!!

Naomi getting some decent air time!!

My favorite picture, Naomi on the FA on TR of the roof climb between the other two.

My favorite picture, Naomi on the FA on TR of the ...


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By Nathan Fisher
Administrator
Jun 3, 2006
rating: 5.10c

Very tricky sequence down low (between bolts 1 and 2), and my group all felt this was harder than Tie Die. 5.10c was our consensus. Once you reach the 2nd bolt, it eases up drastically, until the last bolt (kind of mantly move), and then a heady finish to the anchors as your hands get all slopey. Enjoy

By Jake K.
From: Sheridan, WY
Sep 19, 2007

I also think this route is more challenging than the tie die route. Especially clipping the chains.... You have to work your way around the corner onto all slopers. Unless you are super tall! Once you have it on tope rope, try the roof between the two climbs, it starts out easy, then when you get to the edge of the roof, its a looong reach to a small hold, then its over. Just be careful you dont pull out the loose big block underneath the overhang!!