This climbs staight up the face to the pin, and then crosses Look Who's Talking just right of a nice hand crack (look for the bolt). Beware, the Ruckman guide is wrong. There is 1 extra bolt between the pin and the roof, and the bolt above the roof is hangerless. This is where the runout exists, as well as your pre-pin moves. This climb has nice sharp edges on beautiful quartzite. Fun moves galore. The finish makes this climb.
Protection
1 pin, and 4 bolts + 2 bolt anchor. Otherwise bring a couple of pieces to protect the stretches between fixed gear. Nothing special.
I didn't think this was R rated, there are some runouts but not in difficult sections. The top bolt hanger was missing, but there was several bomber gear placements adjacent to it. I used a medium sized nut and a 0.4 camalot C4. It is a great route, highly recommended.
I climbed this again,a nd I would agree that there is no runout. Also, looking at my old book...it shows that the beginning is in the crack system right of the piton. This makes it a little safer beginning. Finally, I had forgotten how magnificent a finish this route has.
Talk Buttress
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