This is the next climb up from the big 5.9 flake, about midway up the wall. The climb is well bolted with no runouts, except for the very easy top portion. The climb is really pumpy, with a few technical moves at about the fifth bolt. Really fun. Somebody should consider adding some chains at the top.
Protection
Bring six draws for the climb. The anchor is a tree at the top with fixed slings around it. Use these or bring your own if you don't trust them. The tree is about twenty feet back from the edge, so there is quite a bit of drag.
By Spencer Anderson From: Fort Collins, CO Oct 14, 2004 rating: 5.10c
Questionable bolt placements (the first in particular) and hideous rope drag makes this route needlessly frustrating.
By cobra kid From: Salt Lake City, Utah Jun 8, 2006
Rope drag isn't bad if you bring a long draw or runner, but the anchors are horrible. I WILL NOT repeat this route until the dead tree anchor is replaced. Only those with a death wish would tempt fate by using that tree as an anchor. Otherwise it would be a quality route.
The Millstone
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