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Penitentiary Wall
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Cell Life 
Climb and Punishment 
Climbs and Misdemeanors 
Deception 
Jack the Ripper 
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Life Sentence 
Minimum Security 
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Speed is of the Essence 
Sticky Zipper 
Tax Evasion 
Thick N Thin 
Unknown Right Arete 

Speed is of the Essence 

5.7

   

FA: FRA Stuart and Bret Ruckman 1985
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.7 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 60 feet
Views: 162 page views

Submitted By: John J. Glime on Aug 21, 2004


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BETA PHOTO: 1) Rehabilitation 2) Deception 3) Life Sentence...


Description 

This is the obvious 6-inch crack in the left facing corner to the right of Tax Evasion and Climb and Punishment.

Contrary to the route name, speed is not of the essence, it is much better perhaps to take your time and look for good pro, use caution with the placements during the first half of the climb as there is a lot of junky rock. Stemming works better than liebacking for this climb, in my opinion.

Descent: We traversed left to the slings above Climb and Punishment, use your best judgement.

This climb is worth doing if you are in the area and have the time, but it is definitely only one star.


Protection 

Standard trad rack works.



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By Ryan Brough
From: Arvada, Colorado
Jul 7, 2006
rating: 5.7

Correct, this route is better stemmed than liebacked (except at the crux about 20 feet up). There are a bunch of slings 30-40 feet up from the "top" of the route.