Vince on the not so fun lead of the 1st pitch of R...
Description
This is the middle line of the new bolted lines just left of Unemployment Line. It starts on a lower face with 3 bolts, hits a ledge and then continues up the extremely chossy and mossy face. It ends at a hanging belay with only 5.7 or maybe 5.8 moves below you. The second pitch gets a little harder and then finally what you have been climbing 150 feet for... the 5.10a crux (trumpets sounding). It is a nice thin sequence, but 2 moves don't make a climb. Maybe, if it cleans up, and I don't see how, since I gave it such a bad rating, it will earn 1 star, but no more. Oh yeah, haha, I almost forgot, as I was working the crux, there came a most irritating creaking sound as my right hand decided to tug too hard on a cantaloupe sized handhold that ripped off on me. (Funny thinhg is that was the calmest 15-footer I have ever taken.) It looked solid, it felt solid, it even smelled solid. So anyway, wear your helmet (as Vince was), pay attention to falling cantaloupes and moss, and that 5.10a crux may have just gotten harder.
Protection
Bolted all the way up with nary a space. 10 or so draws per pitch. 2 60 meter ropes are nice for the rappel.
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