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Ionic Bonding 

5.11a

   

FA: Brian and Jonathon Smoot 1990
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11a [details]
Length: 2 pitches, 120 feet
Views: 473 page views

Submitted By: Peter Gram on Aug 7, 2004


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Description 

This is a fun route that can be done as 1 or 2 pitches. I'll describe as 2 pitches, but if you run it together just make sure to use some longer runners. When approaching the lower wall, this is the 3rd bolted route encountered from the left.

P1) Steep pitch through 5 bolts which traverse up and right quite a bit. Most of the bolts have been hammered for some reason. After the fifth bolt, the climbing eases considerably up to a 2-bolt anchor. Good warmup for the upper pitch! 5.9+

P2) From the anchors, this is the route that trends right. Climb through 4 bolts which pull through 2 good sized roofs. 5.11a

Descent) 2 one-rope raps with a 50m. I think a 60m rope might barely reach the ground from the top, but be careful.


Protection 

9 bolts.



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By bridger1
Mar 22, 2009

A 60m will reach the ground on this one, with a few feet to spare.

By Tyler King
From: Salt Lake, UT
Jun 24, 2009

Pitch 1 by itself is one of the steepest (and funnest IMO) 9's in the canyon. But definately a 9+. Might feel like a 10- if your not in your game.

By Eric Riddle
From: South Ogden, UT
Oct 21, 2009

Fun, juggy first pitch. Second pitch is good but has a short crux. Don’t cheat yourself by clipping the chains from below the second roof, pull it first!