Second route as you arrive to the wall. Climbs just right of the huge roof.
Fun climb. Probably only a one star but I gave it two because it's long single pitch route. Tough start but eases up, then leads to another 5.10 move, eases again then the final crux before the chains. A lot of, almost too good, resting spots on this route.
Protection
9 quickdraws for bolts and fixed pins with a two anchors at the top. Bring a longer rope.
By Peter Gram Administrator From: Salt Lake City, UT Aug 7, 2004
This route has some really cool moves, but is not sustained at all. A tricky opening sequence leads to a long section of easy rock. The upper wall (bolts 5 through 7) is really good. Steep jug haul that makes this route.
Make sure to have a 60m rope for the rap. Otherwise, use the intermediate rap station just to the right for 2 rappels.
By Nathan Fisher Administrator May 22, 2005 rating: 5.10b
Good route, with good exposure and length. That being the reason I gave 2 stars. Otherwise the long expanse of easy moves detract.
Sort of decked on this route today. After clipping the first bolt, couldn't go straight up so I went 4-5 feet to the right like I have done many times before. I had just cleared the lip (probably 7-8 feet diagonally from the first bolt) when my right hand hold broke. The rope started catching probably a few feet off the ground, but I still hit with my left side. Luckily, I hit a few feet from the rock at the base so I am fine except for some bruises on my left arm, knee and hip. We left the draw on the first bolt and headed home... Just a heads up for others who like going to the right after the first bolt like me... you are going to be missing a hold there!
Did this route for the first time yesterday, Friday the 13th, and noticed that the first bolt is placed just above a lip so your biner levers across the edge. One of the higher bolts (the 2nd?) had a similar placement. In both cases, threading a sling through the hanger looked better than clipping directly.
Nice climb, though.
By mattjbudd From: West Valley, UT Sep 19, 2007 rating: 5.10b PG13
60m rope doesn't quite make it. It's short like 3 feet. It was close enough that I could get down by grabbing the rope on the other end and lowering myself the last 3 feet without the ATC. This could be a classic climb if it wasn't for the horrible bolts on it. The second bolt is one of those old bolts that doesn't have a high strength rating. Another bolt spins (not good). And the first bolt on the second crux is barely out of reach from the comfortable ledge after the long run-out. I recommend putting another bolt before it, or you could find somewhere to place some pro. After the second crux, the only protection you have is 2 old pitons. The first one looks ok, but the second looks pretty sketchy!! The top anchors look kind of bad too, but they work. I would recommend changing them, but since I've never put in bolts nor do I have the equipment, I can't do it. Overall awesome climb. It would be a classic if it had better protection!
S-Curve - Lower Wall
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