BETA PHOTO: My partner rappeling after setting up the toprope.
Description
Flamin' Freddie is on the west side of Challenge Buttress so it gets good shade in the morning/early afternoon.
Climb up the steep opening, traversing slightly left to more dihedral climbing. Follow this up to easier ground (passing an anchor on the right). Continue up the steep face with big jugs for an exciting finish. Pro is more difficult to find in the upper parts, but opportunities are available.
Protection
Standard Rack. This route takes small to medium gear, nothing big is necessary.
Location
To locate the line, first find Hollow Man (5.9, bolts up vertical face). Then, just left is a bolted route that pulls through a big roof. Start below this in a left-facing dihedral.
While waiting for Hollow Man to open up, we set up a toprope on this climb since we didn't have any trad gear, and we weren't up to the R rating. If I were to trad climb this route I'd bring a double set of micro nuts.
Not as runout as the Ruckman guide lead me to believe, but they probably didn't have the plethora of micro-cams that I did. Excellent route, magnificent exposure, and solid climbing. Go lead this one. A bit of brass up high, and nothing larger than a #2 Camalot. There are a lot of cracks and features that take gear that don't appear until you are right there. Oh and do it without clipping the anchor to Wrecking Ball that is right there.
By Shaun Greene From: www.UtahShaun.com Aug 12, 2006
This climb should see more action. It is a great climb! It actually protects very well, you just have to look a little harder for the placements and use some longer runners. Mostly small cams and nuts (RP size) only one set of nuts is necessary. Small (thin crack) placements but all are bomber. Dont let the R rating scare you away.
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