Nice left leaning crack, 3 feet right of the Narcolepsy arete. Finally got around to doing this route, albeit only on TR. Definitely worth doing while in the Narcolepsy area! Sort of soft for a 10a, but a respectable lead requiring some small gear near the top with ledgefall potential. First 2/3 is excellent, but the rock quality degrades slightly at the finish. Anchor: 2 somewhat rusty bolts on top (the old Narcolepsy anchor); need long slings and a backup piece or 2 to TR this.
Protection
Crack is 2 inch at the start, thin in the middle and top. Small to micro stoppers, microcams, a couple medium size pieces for the start.
Duh, actually, it's a right leaning crack. IE, the other left.support lexdysia research.
By Nathan Fisher Administrator Jul 31, 2005 rating: 5.10a
Great little route, that doesn't see enough traffic. Great gear up to #2 Camalot on the below-roof crack. Popping the roof is the crux, and the gear from here is pumpy to place and far between. I did only use one brass, but I also ran out the upper crack. From the ledge to the top, it degrades with what looks like bad rock, but nothing came off. I am glad I finally decided to give this route a go.
Narcolepsy Area
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