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Penitentiary Wall
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Jailbait 

5.9+

   

FA: Gary Olsen, Bret and Stuart Ruckman 1984
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.9+ [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 90 feet
Views: 219 page views

Submitted By: Peter Gram on Jun 25, 2004


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BETA PHOTO: 1) Rehabilitation 2) Deception 3) Life Sentence...


Description 

Jailbait climbs the right side of Penitentiary Wall. Jam up really secure climbing below the roof. Pop over the roof at a thin crack, then continue up through flakes (good holds) up to a set of chain anchors. The upper face is difficult to protect.


Protection 

Standard Rack.



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By Nathan Fisher
Administrator
Aug 21, 2005
rating: 5.9

Heady lead, especially above the roof. I seemed to bring all the wrong sizes of gear. Smaller gear up top, and tricky to say the least.

By Christian Knight
From: Provo, UT
May 14, 2008

Led this thinking the gear wouldn't be so hard to get in. Small nuts and C3's are essential. Brilliant climbing over the roof.

By Tyler King
From: Salt Lake, UT
Aug 15, 2008
rating: 5.9+

Great climb on beautiful rock, and there's not a lot of rock in BCC that I classify as beautiful. The gear is tricky. Perhaps some small tricams would also be nice for the horizontal cracks, mine were too big :(