Minimum Security starts up the thin crack/seam just left of a tree. This is the first climb just right of the really wide crack called "Speed is of the Essence". The initial crack doesn't take any pro, so it would be a dangerous lead. Above, a flake affords small nut placements. The wall above has a bolt (1/4 incher) and a piton which climb through the crux. Apparently, the left arete is off route, which makes the route much harder.
Protection
This climb can be toproped after doing Jailbait or Climb and Punishment. The route is very runout, but has a bolt, piton, and some places for stoppers.
Very thin climbing on excellent rock! Deserves rebolting, IMHO.You would want to be at least an 11a slab climber to lead this route in it's present condition. Also, could use a new anchor. Currently, there is one slightly damaged bolt several feet back from the top of the slab, necessitating gear to toprope or belay on this route.
Hi, I hope the comment about bolting it means the old spinner. If it is the one I placed in 1984 someone ought to yank that sucker and sink a fatty. Otherwise I hope the route remains the same to make leaders think about gear. Have Fun and be safe!
Magnificent lead, although I probably shouldn't have, knowing the condition of the bolt. The climbing was well worth it though. Small edges, thin moves, increasing exposure and tricky gear. All the makings of a classic.
My take on the Gear: It is small and sparse, with several long runouts. Down low in the initial crack, you have to spend a lot of time but I did get a couple of shaky nuts in (one brass). As the climb progresses, you can get your only "good" pre-bolt piece in the flake, again if you take your time. I used my only screamer on the bolt as it was the hardest move and I just couldn't believe how bad a shape it was really in. I was also able to get a small nut in just below the bolt. After the pin, I was able to get three quick pieces in, in a near-horizontal crack: Red Trango (shaky), orange Metolius (good), and a nut right on the arete (good). Finally run it out to the ledge, where I plugged a #1 Camalot to protect the last face.The anchor is a bolt with a badly mangled hanger, so bring more gear.
Descent: Traverse over to the slings on Climb and Punishment.
One more time... A great route with an extremely heady lead. Do this one on your best day.
By Ryan Brough From: Arvada, Colorado Sep 13, 2007 rating: 5.10a R
Mike White from the ASCA replaced the original bolt a few weeks ago. I only placed three pieces that would have held a fall, all others were "mental" pro and probably would have held just more than body weight. Still, it was a good exercise in finding pro and overcoming mental barriers. I loved the consistency and the rock quality was stellar.
I agree with Nate. Climb this one on your best day, super heady with small frictiony foot placement and tiny crimpers if you're lucky. If you have never trusted your feet or aren't sure about the quality of your shoes, this climb could be revelatory for you whether you send it or not.
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