On the east end of The Upper Wall are many bolted lines. This is the 2nd from the east. It starts atop a small pedestal. It then climbs juggy roofs to the anchors.
Protection
2 bolts for the anchors and 4 draws for the climb.
The crux is right after the second bolt. We went right of the bolt. Lots of nice jugs and body position is helpful, since the route is steep. This route shares anchors with the .10a immediately west.
By Ryan Brough From: Arvada, Colorado Apr 29, 2006 rating: 5.9
As of 4/29/2006, there are separate anchors for Urban Sprawl (5.10a) to the left (west).
There are so many chalked "holds" at the crux, it's not even funny any more. Last time i was warming-up on this route without paying too much attention to what I was doing and I did a long reach for something that was about as covered in chalk as this flake on one of the Gate boulders. I was expecting a bucket-sized jug, it turned out to be a sloppy old bulge that would have felt good on a 5.13... I decked on the ramp below and was almost too scared to get back up to retrive my draw before bailing...
By S. Gileadi From: Salt Lake City Jun 10, 2007 rating: 5.9
Weird.. those crappy chalked "holds" to the left at the crux seem to be a bit off the route anyway- follow the natural line between the bolts and ignore the chalk and you will be fine.
By icsteveoh From: salt lake city, UT Jul 23, 2007 rating: 5.9+ R
Whats with the spacy bolting on one of the harder parts of the climb with potential decking on the big boulder? Definitely don't try going left of the bolt or left up the roof makes it a lot harder and scarier.
By S. Gileadi From: Salt Lake City Jul 28, 2007 rating: 5.9
*warning- beta follows- ignore if you don't want any beta**
I don't usually like to post beta, but after doing this route again, I want to reiterate that despite all the chalk and enticing looking holds to the left at the crux, those holds are off route and if you go there, you the climbing gets much harder and there is potential to deck on the pedestal.
The 5.9 crux move is a balancy high step straight up towards the next bolt and it's low enough that I don't think you'd deck on the pedestal with a good belay. The reason that there is no chalk there is because the holds are down low and you have stand up without anything up high to reach the jugs above (balancy, but no harder than 5.9). Once this move is done with, it's easy jugsville until the next bolt.
If done correctly, this climb is not runout and the bolting makes sense.
S-Curve - Upper Wall
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