Mr. Sandman 

FA:  Gordon Douglass, Stuart Ruckman 1989 Type:  Trad, TR Consensus:  5.10a/b [details] Length:  1 pitch, 60 feet Views: 346 page views Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 22, 2003 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Stemming to succes

Description 

This climbs the left crack (Chimney Sweep) in the deep chimney system until the prow and then works right to the bolts and finishes on the prow. The crack is easy and enjoyable. When you get to the prow, don't be overwhelmed, as the faces get very smooth and stemming seems to be the key to get out on the prow. Second, flexibility in the legs and a long reach seem helpful.

Protection 

2 bolts up top for the anchors. 3 draws for the prow, and some medium gear for the crack leading to the prow.

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BETA PHOTO: 4) Mr. Sandman 5) Narcosis	that 3 bolt thing...	Mr. Sandman