Look Who's Talking 

FA:  Unknown Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.8 [details] Length:  1 pitch, 110 feet Views: 94 page views Submitted By: Peter Gram on Jun 20, 2004 Add Photo  Add Comment

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BETA PHOTO: Talk Buttress - Look Who's Talking on the left, No...

Description 

Look Who's Talking is a really great route, despite the vegetation and squeeze chimney as seen below. Start on top of a chockstone, which is just before the dropoff to the left. Make an airy traverse left (ground drops below), but this can be protected with a red alien. Reach the crack and all the plant life. Easily avoid the plants on face holds, passing 2 really bad pitons which aren't worth clipping. Reach a beautiful finger crack which splits a smooth as glass wall, pulling through a roof. Face climb around the squeeze chimney, then finish up on a ledge. Some moderate downclimbing to the left is required to get off.

Protection 

Mostly stuff #1 camalot or smaller. Maybe a few bigger pieces. Also, fairly small gear for the anchor.