BETA PHOTO: 1) Rehabilitation 2) Deception 3) Life Sentence...
Description
The furthest left climb on the this section of walls. It consists of a right trending flake that lends itself well to jams (finger and hand).
Protection
The climb utilizes trad gear only. I utilized medium and large nuts, and medium cams. The anchor consists of slings around a flake, so one would be wise to bring extras in case the old ones need to be cut off.
By John J. Glime From: Salt Lake City, UT Aug 21, 2004 rating: 5.7
I don't really recognize Nathan's description...or perhaps we were on different variations. Either way, this climbs the right facing 3 inch "flake", which snakes its way up and right to the bush on top of the wall. I wouldn't recommend this climb for 5.7 leaders. You need good footwork and the placements are thin, small and there are some exciting runouts for a 60 foot (?) climb. Bring medium and small nuts, and bring small cams (0's, 1's, 2's, 3's.) The more small cams you have the better you will feel. The biggest cam I placed was a .5 camalot. The anchor as of today is a well slung tree/bush. While you are there, top rope Deception (the arete to the right of Rehabilitation.)
Penitentiary Wall
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