This climbs the left bolt line on the East face just right of the big chimney system. The 1st bolt is rather high, but the climb protects well after that. This is an edging climb that is very fun. The angle is relaxed enough you almost don't need your hands. Almost.
Protection
2 bolts atop for the anchor. They are actually on the wall now as opposed to over the top. 3 draws for the climb.
The rock on this wall is very nice -- kind of like the Slips, but on steroids. A little steeper, a bit more crimpy, requiring cranking. My serious concern is the protection, or lack thereof. Whoever set this route obviously had little concern for those that would subsequently lead it. 3 bolts over 60 feet -- are you kidding?
Great climb! I think the crux is very well protected (just past the third/last bolt). The start is somewhat runout, but only about 5.7 in difficulty. Excellent!
2nd bolt has been replaced. In my eyes this is a well protected climb. The 15-20ft to the first bolt are quite easy and it stays safe (but a little runout) after that. Footwork is key!
By Ryan Peterson From: North Salt Lake, Utah Jul 10, 2007
Bolt position seemed fine to me. Great climb to practice footwork, I only had to pull once the entire climb.
Narcolepsy Area
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