This climbs the left bolt line on the East face just right of the big chimney system. The 1st bolt is rather high, but the climb protects well after that. This is an edging climb that is very fun. The angle is relaxed enough you almost don't need your hands. Almost.
Protection
2 bolts atop for the anchor. They are actually on the wall now as opposed to over the top. 3 draws for the climb.
The rock on this wall is very nice -- kind of like the Slips, but on steroids. A little steeper, a bit more crimpy, requiring cranking. My serious concern is the protection, or lack thereof. Whoever set this route obviously had little concern for those that would subsequently lead it. 3 bolts over 60 feet -- are you kidding?
Great climb! I think the crux is very well protected (just past the third/last bolt). The start is somewhat runout, but only about 5.7 in difficulty. Excellent!
2nd bolt has been replaced. In my eyes this is a well protected climb. The 15-20ft to the first bolt are quite easy and it stays safe (but a little runout) after that. Footwork is key!
By Ryan Peterson From: North Salt Lake, Utah Jul 10, 2007
Bolt position seemed fine to me. Great climb to practice footwork, I only had to pull once the entire climb.
Great climb and excellent footwork exercise (got a friend who gets by on brute force? Bring him here and have some laughs). I agree with Lee that the bolting was irresponsible here. You can easily set up a top-rope by walking around the left. That first bolt is so high that you'd deck pretty hard if you missed the clip (not worth the risk in my opinion. A great little climb though and worth the sketchy approach.
By Brian in SLC From: Salt Lake City, UT Jul 13, 2009
The bolting is "irresponsible"? No, climbers expecting every route in the canyon to be bolted safely, in accordance with their tastes, is irresponsible.
Look at the date of the FA. No power drills back then.
You'll remember a lead of this route long after the memory of just about any "sport" climb.
Celibrate diversity! If you're not up for it, then, TR it. Leading this route if you're not solid at the grade would be irresponsible...
By Craig Martin From: Park City, UT Jul 13, 2009 rating: 5.9+
This was one of my first leads ever, and although the bolts are widely spaced they do provide adequate protection. I have had a few partners over the years who are afraid to give it a try, but for those with a strong lead head it is not too bad.
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