There is a really good photo/topo on rockclimbing.com.But basically: Pitch 1: start on the right/west end of the North face, linking small weaknesses to a big ledge at 180+ feet. Move belay around the corner 50 feet to the right, and climb a large left facing corner, staying left below steep roofs....a very smooth slab section is mastered using holds on the right and a long reach. Belay on obvious nice ledge. Pitch 3: Start by climbing either of two left angling cracks for about 25 feet (fingers on the right, thin hands on the left)....avoid large roof by moving right along a nice shelf/flake (long slings to avoid rope drag!!)....then straight up steeper rock/crack to large shale covered ledge (sling sharp edged boulder for belay). Pitch four: Scramble left along the ledge (loose shale!!), and climb 50 feet to summit (sling boulder to belay).
To descend: From the boulders atop the route, scramble south along the shale ridge towards the true summit, and then angle down a nice ramp to the left (east) to a group of pine trees. Three single rope rappels off nice, live pine trees reaches the scree at the base of the northeast face.
Protection
I placed lots of cams, from #0 TCU to #2 Camalot, and the occaisional nut. You'll want plenty of long runners, and some very long slings/cordellette for belays (slung flakes). Only some loose rock keeps this from being a 3 star classic!!
I would call the first pitch 5.7, while the 2nd and 3rd pitches are easily 5.8, with the opportunity for 5.9 variations on the North Face.It would nice to have some fixed gear at belays on this route.While all-clean alpine routes are of course preferred in wilderness areas, the slung blocks and flakes used for belays on this route have very sharp edges, and there aren't many solid gear placements to be had!
Gear wise, I took a 3 Camalot, and only used it once, in a belay. Wished I'd had a second #2! Micro cams were essential. Finally, make sure to be off the Sundial before the weather turns bad! We got off just in time!
As a side comment....check out the Northwest face of Superior peak from the Sundial!Hoo daddy, now that's a nice looking wall!!!
By triznuty From: Murray, UT Jul 30, 2006 rating: 5.8
The FA's had a good eye on this one. Excellent rock, killer exposure, sweet views and cool temps definitely make this a Wasatch 3 star mountain classic.
Standard rack (micro cams help) with some extra webbing-for belays & raps.
Sundial
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