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Urban Sprawl 

Urban Sprawl 

5.10a PG13

   

FA: Stuart Ruckman, Gordon Douglass 1990
Type: Sport, TR
Consensus: 5.10- [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 60 feet
Views: 359 page views

Submitted By: Lee Gitlin on May 13, 2004


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Urban Sprawl.


Description 

Very steep and juggy, with two roofs to pull at the top. On lead, failing to clip the bolts atop the roofs could prang you into the jagged rocks below. The route actually moves left of the final roof, then right to the anchors. This route shares anchors with Clean Underwear (5.9) immediately to its east. So you could lead Clean Underwear first if you'd prefer to toprope, but be advised: the toprope will tend to yank you right, off route.


Protection 

Five bolts, bomber links at the anchors.



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By Anonymous Coward
Mar 15, 2005

Is there supposed to be a bolt in between #3 and #4? That is a pretty big fall (possible grounder) and considering how well everything else is bolted... it seems like one belongs there. Also, above #3 do u head straight up the bulge or hang right or left? Straight up seemed harder than 10a but going right or left seems off route.

By Rebecca Airmet
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 5, 2005
rating: 5.10a

If you plan on top-roping this, consider clipping the bolts on rappel to avoid the swing to the right. This will also allow you to actually get back on the route if you pop off. There are also now two sets of anchors at the top, one each for this and Clean Underwear, right next to each other.

By Nathan Fisher
Administrator
Apr 25, 2006
rating: 5.10a PG13

Good route. Fits right in to the area. Looking up at the distance between bolt 3 & 4, I felt there must be another bolt. However, when you get there and realize there isn't, it isn't that big of a deal as it pretty easy climbing.