Marc heads up the last pitch of East Dihedrals. No...
Description
The East Dihedrals route is probably the most obvious line on the Dead Snag when looking from a distance. This route starts just a small ways left of Steort's. The anchors for the top of pitches 1 & 2 are both gear anchors.
P1) This pitch climbs the deep right facing dihedral just left of Steort's. Wander up through an easy opening to a bulge move to start the main dihedral. Pull through this cool move, then up the dihedral. When this feature dies out, wander up easy climbing heading a little left to a good ledge/pod below a steep hand crack.
P2) Climb up this hand crack, through another small bulge, then cruise up an easy right facing dihedral until a belay ledge. Another gear anchor.
P3) Take your choice of 5.easy routes to the chain anchors on a big ledge. This pitch is short. Maybe could be combined with P2 with a 60m rope?
Descent) Rap 3 times, using fixed chain anchors. All raps require only one rope and are on good ledges.
By Nathan Fisher Administrator Jul 4, 2004 rating: 5.6
East dihedrals suffer from inconsistency. Pitch 1 is decent climbing, but nothing spectacular. The hand crack directly above the 1st belay station is the only part of the climb, in my opinion, that warrants a "classic" 3 star rating, but because the rest of the climb above this point is almost a 4th class scramble it detracts. Definitely an easy lead, regardless of the supposed exposure, because of the easy climbing and the bomber protection throughout. Pitch 2 has a lost nut, please leave as is, as it isn't worth your trouble getting it out.
By Jason Billings From: Draper, UT Jun 28, 2005 rating: 5.6
This is a great little climb that can be done in two pitches with a 60M rope. Climb the first pitch past the two ledges to a nice belay ledge that has a piton about 8 feet up at about 2 o'clock. From here most the exciting climbing is done. I moved out on the face, just left of the piton, and continued up. This climb was great as two pitches, I saw no need for an additonal belay.
By Ryan Brough From: Arvada, Colorado Aug 5, 2006 rating: 5.6
The wire on the lost nut on the last pitch has been chopped. There is also a lost tri-cam on the first pitch, good luck trying to "un-sink the pink". We climbed this in two pitches, just as Jason mentioned (with the belay just below the pin). For the second pitch, finish the dihedral and once it starts to level out, climb out on the face. There is a great crack below a small juniper and the face climbing above the juniper is great too.