This is the climb that climbs the flake on the right side. It pops over the flake and then starts a nice rightward shuffle. The shuffle is a blast, as the crack is nice on the fingers.
Protection
Bring large hexes and medium nuts for the anchors. Also, bring medium to large gear for the climb with some runners.
By Andrew Gram Administrator From: Denver, CO Jul 7, 2004 rating: 5.8+
Stout for 5.8, awkward, and the crack flares inward so gear is a bit tricky to place, though solid if you work at it. Not nearly as good as the other 5.8 on the buttress.
The hardest move is getting off the ground, although you can protect the initial moves by placing a piece before you start climbing. Good hand jamming technique is a must, and there is a second crux right below the roof. The route protects well with SLCDs and hexes. The anchor station is a nice, picnic table ledge.
This is a fun route, I thought the gear was fine, it is just a little short.
By Arie Leeflang From: North Korea Jul 1, 2007 rating: 5.8-
Hmmm... For what it's worth, I felt this was a little soft for 5.8. The business is getting off the ground- from there, there were quality feet, jugs, and solid jams to my delight. New anchors on the picnic ledge (maybe just replaced)? I won't dabble there, but it could use a couple links or chains despite the easy walkoff... Quality line though.
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